Saturday, March 31, 2012

Basics of Cake development - Formulas and Measurements

Formulas And Measurement
Bakers commonly talk about formulas rather than recipes. If this sounds to you more like a chemistry lab than a food output facility, it is with good reason. The bakeshop is very much like a chemistry laboratory, both in the scientific accuracy of the procedures and in the involved reactions that take place during mixing and baking.

Measurement
Ingredients are practically all the time weighed in the bakeshop, rather than measured by volume, because measurement by weight is more accurate. Accuracy of measurement, as we have said, is vital in the bakeshop. Unlike home baking recipes, a professional baker's formula will not call for 6 cups flour, for example.

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To demonstrate to yourself the point of weighing rather than measuring by volume, quantum a cup of flour in two ways:
(a) Sift some flour and lightly spoon it into a dry measure. Level the top and weigh the flour.
(b) Scoop some unsifted flour into the same quantum and pack it lightly. Level the
top and weigh the flour. Note the difference.No wonder home recipes can be so inconsistent!

The baker's term for weighing ingredients is scaling.
The following ingredients, and only these ingredients, may sometimes be measured by volume, at the ratio of 1 pint per pound or 1 liter per kilogram:
o Water o Milk o Eggs
Volume quantum is often used when scaling water for small or mediumsized batches of bread. Results are commonly good. However, whenever accuracy is critical, it is good to weigh.This is because a pint of water of course weighs slightly more than a pound, or practically 16.7 oz. (This figure varies with the climatic characteristic of the water.)
For convenience, volume measures of liquids are often used when products other than baked flour goods-such as sauces, syrups, puddings, and custards-are being made.

Units of Measure
The ideas of measurement used in the United States is very complicated. Even those who have used the ideas all their lives sometimes have issue remembering things like how many fluid ounces are in a quart and how many feet are in a mile.

The Metric System
The United States is the only major country that uses the involved ideas of measurement we have just described. Other countries use a much simpler ideas called the metric system.

Abbreviations of U.S. Units of quantum Used
pound(lb)
ounce (oz)
gallon (gal)
quart (qt)
pint (pt)
fluid ounce( fl oz)
tablespoon (tbsp)
teaspoon (tsp)
inch (in)
foot(ft)

In the metric system, there is one basic unit for each type of measurement:
The gram is the basic unit of weight.
The liter is the basic unit of volume.
The meter is the basic unit of length.
The degree Celsius is the basic unit of temperature.
Larger or smaller units are simply made by multiplying or dividing by 10, 100,
1000, and so on.These divisions are expressed by prefixes. The ones you need
to know are:
kilo- = 1000
deci- = 1D10 or 0.1
centi- = 1D100 or 0.01
milli- = 1D1000 or 0.001

Formulas and Measurement
Metric Units
Basic units
Quantity Unit Abbreviation
weight gram g
volume liter L
length meter m
temperature degree Celsius °C
Divisions and multiples
Prefix/Example Meaning Abbreviation
kilo- 1000 k
kilogram 1000 grams kg
deci- 1D10 d
deciliter 0.1 liter dL
centi- 1D100 c
centimeter 0.01 meter cm
milli- 1D1000 m
millimeter 0.001 meter mm

Converting to Metric
Most population think the metric ideas is much harder to learn than it of course is. This is because they think about metric units in terms of U.S. Units. They read that there are 28.35 grams in an ounce and are immediately convinced that they will never be able to learn metrics. Do not worry about being able to turn U.S. Units into metric units and vice versa. This is a very foremost point to remember, especially if you think that the metric ideas might be hard to learn. The suspect for this is simple.You will commonly be working in whether one ideas or the other.You will rarely, if ever, have to turn from one to the other. (An exception might be if you have tool based on one ideas and you want to use a formula written in the other.) Many population today own imported cars and mend them with metric tools without ever worrying about how many millimeters are in an inch. Similarly, if and when American bakeshops and kitchens turn to the metric system, American cooks and bakers will use scales that quantum in grams and kilograms, volume measures that quantum in liters and deciliters, and thermometers that quantum in degrees Celsius, and they will use formulas that indicate these units.They will not have to worry about how many grams are in an ounce. To come to be accustomed to working in metric units, it is helpful to have a feel for how large the units are.The following rough equivalents may be used to help you visualize metric units. They are not exact conversion factors.

A kilogram is slightly more than 2 lb.
A gram is about 1D30 oz. A half teaspoon of flour weighs a miniature less than a
gram.
A liter is slightly more than a quart.
A deciliter is slightly less than a half cup.
A centiliter is about 2 tsp.
A meter is slightly more than 3 ft.
A centimeter is about 3D8 in.
0°C is the frozen point of water (32°F).
100°C is the boiling point of water (212°F).
An growth or decrease of 1 degree Celsius is equivalent to about 2
degrees Fahrenheit.

Metric Formulas and Recipes

American manufactures will probably adopt the metric ideas someday.Many formula writers are already eager to get a head start and are printing metric equivalents. As a result, you will see recipes calling for 454 g flour, 28.35 g butter, or a baking climatic characteristic of 191°C.No wonder population are afraid of the metric system! Kitchens in metric countries do not work with such impractical numbers, any more than we commonly use figures like 1 lb 11D4 oz flour, 2.19 oz butter, or a baking climatic characteristic of 348°F.That would defeat the whole purpose of the metric system,which is to be simple and practical. If you have a chance to look at a French cookbook, you will see nice, round numbers such as 1 kg, 200 g, and 4 dL.
The metric measures in the formulas in this book are Not equivalent to the U.S. Measures given alongside them.You should think of the metric quantum of the formulas as cut off formulas with yields that are close to but not the same as the yields of the U.S. Formulas. To give exact equivalents would wish using awkward, impractical numbers. If you have metric equipment,use the metric units, and if you have U.S.equipment,use the U.S. Units.You should rarely have to worry about converting between the two. For the most part, the total yield of the metric formulas in this book is close to the yield of the U.S. Formulas while keeping the ingredient proportions the same. Unfortunately, it is not all the time potential to keep the proportions exactly the same because the U.S. ideas is not decimal-based like the metric system. In some cases, the metric quantities yield slightly separate results due to the varying proportions, but these differences are commonly extremely small.

The principle of using a baker's scale is simple: The scale must balance before setting the weights, and it must balance again after scaling. The following course applies to the most commonly used type of baker's scale.
1. Set the scale scoop or other container on the left side of the scale.
2. balance the scale by placing counterweights on the right side
and/or by adjusting the ounce weight on the horizontal bar.
3. Set the scale for the desired weight by placing weights on the right side
and/or by sharp the ounce weight.
For example, to set the scale for 1 lb 8 oz, place a 1-lb weight on the right side and
move the ounce weight to the right 8 oz. If the ounce weight is already over 8 oz, so
that you cannot move it another 8, add 2 lb to the right side of the scale and subtract 8
ounces by sharp the ounce weight 8 places to the left. The result is still 1 lb 8 oz.
4. Add the ingredient being scaled to the left side until the scale balances.

Measuring By Weight
A good balance scale should be strict to 1D4 oz (0.25 oz) or, if metric, to 5 g. Dry ingredients weighing less than 1D4 oz can be scaled by physically dividing larger quantities into equal portions. For example, to scale 1D16 oz
(0.06 oz),first weigh out 1D4 oz,then divide this into four equal piles using a small knife.

For fine pastry work, a small battery-operated digital scale is often more useful than a large balance scale. A good digital scale is relatively inexpensive. It can abruptly quantum quantities to the nearest 1D8 oz or the nearest 2 g. Most digital scales have a zero or tare button that sets the indicated weight to zero. For example, you may set a container on the scale, set the weight to zero, add the desired quantity of the first ingredient, again set the weight to zero, add the second ingredient, and so on. This speeds the weighing of dry ingredients that are to be sifted together, for example.However, remember that specific weighing on a good scale is more accurate.

British bakers have a convenient formula for measuring baking powder when small quantities are needed.They use a combination called scone flour. To make a pound of scone flour, incorporate 15 oz flour and 1 oz baking powder; sift together three times.One ounce (1D16 lb) scone flour thus contains 1D16 (0.06 oz) baking powder. For each 1D16 oz baking powder you need in a formula, substitute 1 oz scone flour for 1 oz of the flour called for in the formula. In order to make formula conversions and calculations easier, fractions of ounces that appear in the ingredient tables of the formulas in this book are written as decimals.Thus,11D 2 oz is written as 1.5 oz and 1D4 oz is written as 0.25 oz.

Baker'S Percentages
Bakers use a simple but versatile ideas of percentages for expressing their formulas. Baker's percentages express the whole of each ingredient used as a percentage of the whole of flour used. To put it differently, the percentage of each ingredient is its total weight divided by the weight of the flour,multiplied by 100%, or:
100% = % of ingredient

Thus, flour is all the time 100%. If two kinds of flour are used, their total is 100%. Any ingredient that weighs the same as the whole of flour used is also given as 100%.The cake formula ingredients listed on page 11 justify how these percentages are used.Check the figures with the above equation to make sure you understand them. Please remember that these numbers do not refer to the percentage of the total yield.They are simply a way of expressing ingredient proportions. The total yield of these percentage numbers will all the time be greater than 100%. The advantages of using baker's percentages is that the formula is of course adapted for any yield, and singular ingredients may be various and other ingredients added without changing the whole formulation. For example, you can add raisins to a muffin mix formula while keeping the percentages of all the other ingredients the same. Clearly, a percentage ideas based on the weight of flour can be used only when flour is a major ingredient, as in breads,cakes,and cookies.However, this principle can be used in other formulas as well by choosing a major ingredient and establishing it as 100%. In this book, whenever an ingredient other than flour is used as the base of 100%.

Basics of Cake development - Formulas and Measurements

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Monday, March 26, 2012

proper Land Drainage is Important!

Many asset owners are not concerned with yard drainage until they have a problem. Water simply follows the path of least resistance to lower elevations and problems arise when original pathways constructed by the manufacturer come to be blocked or were inadequate from the beginning. Not having convenient slopes and drains on a asset to direct or divert water runoff can allow the water to find a path directly to areas where you would least want it such as foundations, under pavement, in your basement etc. Flooding basements and cracked foundations are good wake-up calls to the issue but addressing problems beforehand can save you thousands of dollars, and headaches, down the road.

The two categories of water supplying a lawn are outside and subsurface. Subsurface water refers to the water below the first layer of topsoil which cannot permeate any lower due to the tightness of the soil beneath. Also known as the water table, all soil has this layer of water with differences in depth depending on the area. Although a high water table can be a problem in some areas, in general, outside water is the cause of excess subsurface water as too much outside water penetrating the ground can raise the water table. outside water sources are rainfall and irrigation, such as sprinklers, and can be particularly troublesome in urbanized areas which include numerous impervious surfaces.

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Streets, driveways and parking lots simply leave nowhere for rainwater to go. As with a lawn, the runoff will whether pool in depressions or flow to soil nearby the edges causing saturation in other area. When soil reaches 100% saturation, with itsybitsy or no drainage to sustain in excess water removal, not only do pools of water collect, but the saturated soil takes much longer to dry out. This excess water retards plant increase by decreasing aeration in the root zone and decreasing nutrient supplies. Additionally, excess water in the soil will increase freezing damage in the winter months. Having proper drainage on your asset will preclude water from collecting nearby your building or home foundations, minimize soil erosion and help protect your vegetation from death and disease.

Surface and subsurface are the two types of drainage solutions and both are vital protections for buildings and lawns. outside drainage refers to the natural pathway taken by the water following rain or irrigation and is achieved through gutters, downspouts, outside grates, exposed French drains and by shaping and grading your lawn to provide maximum outside water dismissal with minimum soil erosion. Subsurface drainage refers to pipes and drains settled in the lawn which remove excess water that has gravitated underground, whether through holes in the soil or simply from soil saturation. Water travels through soil by capillary action, which is much like a paper towel - when one side gets wet, moisture will moderately voyage to the dry side until the whole substance is saturated. Once the soil is saturated, subsurface French drains are needed to remove excess water. In doing so, subsurface drainage keeps plants healthy, helps soil to warm earlier in the spring and leaves less water to ice in the winter, minimizing frost heaving damage to your home or building.

Problems connected with improper drainage

Improper drainage can lead to pools of collected water in your lawn and/or nearby your home or building, both of which pose a threat. When collected close to your foundation, standing water can potentially cause foundation cracks, foundation movement and flooded basements. When collected on your yard, pooling water gives mosquitoes a breeding ground and can leave your grass susceptible to disease.

Foundations: The most costly issue connected with improper drainage is your foundation. Soil simply expands when it is wet and contracts when it is dry and as long as all the soil underneath your building expands and contracts uniformly, it is not likely to cause a problem. Damage is done, however, when only part of the soil heaves or settles. This differential movement is most often due to differences in soil moisture. Improper drainage on one side of the building can leave wet soil that remains waterlogged for days or weeks (or in worst cases leaves constant water pooled nearby your foundation walls) while the other side of the buildings has soil that dries fast following a rain.

The wet side has expanded, and remains so, while the other side contracts as it dries, and this action pulls the walls of the buildings away from one another. Repetition of this process will finally furnish cracks in the foundations, walls and/or ceilings. Foundation repairs are not ordinarily covered by homeowner's guarnatee policies and can cost as much as ,000 to ,000 or more to fix, not along with cosmetic fixes to drywall, door jams, bricks, flooded carpets, flooring, etc. Anyone who has experienced a flooded basement or cracks due to heaving can attest to a costly fix! In addition, the drainage issues which caused the problem will still need to be addressed.

Basements: The same issue connected with foundations applies to your basement, with the added problem of letting water into your home through the cracks. In expanding to damaging carpets, flooring, drywall and furniture, the water increases your basement's humidity creating the exquisite environment for the increase of bacteria and mold. Mold enters your home as tiny spores, which need moisture to grow and multiply. They can grow on approximately any outside and they digest and destroy your home as they do. When disturbed, mold spores are released into the air and can be breathed in by you and your family, aggravating allergies and asthma. A small estimate of molds furnish mycotoxins which can induce nausea, fatigue, headaches and lung and eye irritation when a someone is exposed to high levels. Furthermore, mites and spiders can proliferate in a moldy basement as mites feed on mold spores and spiders feed on mites.

Waterproofing your basement can help protect your home and is a good guarnatee policy, but your first line of defense against a wet basement is enhancing the drainage in the lawn and all areas surrounding the home or building. According to most engineers and home inspectors, 85 to 95% of wet basements and interiors of buildings can be made dry by enhancing outside drainage nearby your house or building.

Mosquitoes: We are all well-known with one of the biggest nuisances of the summer but were you aware that mosquitoes need less than an ounce of water in which to lay their eggs? While standing water is generally the egg-laying site for mosquitoes, some species lay their eggs on damp soil and, if your lawn has poor drainage, leaves your grass as a exquisite home for these pests. Needing only two to three days to hatch, your asset needs to be able to dry out fast enough whether to preclude females from looking your yard as a prime location or to dry out eggs that have been laid.

With females laying up to 300 eggs at a time, your yard can well come to be infested, driving you and your family inside on warm summer nights. Along with the itching and aggravation of bites, mosquitoes bring diseases such as West Nile Virus, Malaria, Dengue and encephalitis. All are potentially fatal. Your pets are also at risk, as mosquitoes are the hosts for heartworm and can narrate this disease to dogs, cats and other animals. Additionally, West Nile and encephalitis can be transmitted to horses. The American Mosquito operate relationship instructs asset owners to not only eliminate standing water nearby your home or building, but to ensure proper drainage on your asset to eliminate this inherent hazard.

Turf Diseases: As the first impression a visitor or buyer has of your home or business, it is no doubt important to you to have well-maintained and engaging landscaping nearby your property. Death and disease of grass and plants is not only ugly, it is a waste of money invested as well as costly to correct. Excess water on or in your lawn prohibits the increase of grass, plants and trees by robbing them of their air and nutrient provide and leaving them susceptible to strike by fungi, moss and mold. Fungi, the most tasteless cause of lawn diseases, are itsybitsy organisms that spread by air- or water-borne spores. The spores act like seeds, sprouting to life and infecting its environment when conditions are right.

Rhizoctonia Yellow Patch, Red Thread, and Pythium Blight are some tasteless fungi diseases which appear in moist environments resulting from greatest soil and outside moisture. Many of the fungi diseases are difficult to operate once they appear and damage may remain for two to four years following treatment. While fungicides can be applied to help preclude or operate lawn diseases, any strains are resistant to fungicides. The best prevention is the absence of convenient conditions, along with enhancing moisture conditions on top of, and under, your turf.

Mushrooms also need greatest wet conditions to grow. While mushrooms do not harm grass, many of them are poisonous and can be a danger to children and pets that ingest them. Poisonous mushrooms have no features to distinguish them from nonpoisonous mushrooms and identification, therefore, is only inherent by those educated about the various genera and species.

Erosion: In expanding to the issues connected with standing water, water engaging too fast off your asset causes problems as well. As raindrops fall on your lawn, if there is enough intensity, the impact will dislodge small particles of soil which can then be carried off by the rain as it flows. This soil will whether be carried off to sewers or deposited in other area of your yard, depending on your drainage conditions. Over time, original drainage measures, such as ditches and trenches, can come to be filled with soil, defeating their purpose and redirecting how water moves on your property. Erosion is accelerated where plant cover is sparse and spaces in the middle of plants come to be larger, leaving no security for your soil during intense rains. proper grades and slopes stop water from carrying away your soil by holding water runoff at an approved rate. Slowing down water that is running off too fast gives soil particles time to rule out of the water and back onto the ground before being portable too far away. Additionally, healthy plant life with deep roots protects and holds on to your soil.

Benefits of proper drainage

Structural Protection: Having a broad drainage ideas in place protects your buildings by preventing water's damaging palpate with concrete. Water that doesn't evaporate and isn't absorbed by soil finally goes somewhere and, oftentimes, it sits under and nearby your foundations. Drainage solutions will keep the moisture article nearby your foundation garage and uniform, holding contraction and expansion to a minimum. This maintains the integrity of foundations and helps preclude cracks and water seepage.

Plants and Landscaping: proper soil moisture is indispensable for plants and lawns to develop a healthy root system. dismissal of excess water in the soil deepens the root zone and increases the air in that area. The increased aeration, in turn, increases the provide of nutrients, many of which need the air to change chemically before they are accessible to plants. The deep root ideas which grows will then holds on to the soil and protect it from erosion. Additionally, water will not pool in areas of your property, leaving turf susceptible to disease, and help you declare the pleasing aesthetics in which you invested.

Recreational Areas: By implementing drainage solutions, recreational areas, such as parks, golf courses and athletic fields, heighten traffic ability and increased use of the property. Drains help nature clear out excess water and allow turf to fast recover from rain. The consequent is that the recreational area can be open for extended periods of time and for more intensive use, resulting in increased revenue.

Spring showers are not the only cause for concern

The Midwest is notorious for greatest weather changes with a drought one year and floods the next. While St. Louis has an mean rainfall nearby 40 inches, in 2008 we had 50.72 inches pour down on us, with nearly half of that estimate coming in the middle of June and September. If you have weathered winter snow and spring rains, do not let down your guard thinking you are safe for other year. Summer can sometimes bring surprises and the added deluge to your soil will only intensify existing problems requiring more broad repairs.

A note about water tables

Water table refers to the depth at which the soil always contains 100% water. In some areas the water table is higher than the bottom of the foundation, requiring a involved ideas of drains and sump pumps to draw the water away from your structure. High water tables can lead to devastating damage to your foundation or basement and is sometimes cited by professional waterproofers as the cause of a problem because of the costly measures to exact it. The National relationship of Home Builders, however, estimates that only five percent of wet basements are due to high water tables. If you have water damage, you are most likely dealing with outside runoff problems which can be corrected through slopes, grades and drains in your yard, along with proper gutter systems. Contemporary building codes preclude contractors from building basements where water tables are high and if your home or building is less than 30 years old you can be reasonably sure a high water table is not your problem. If you have a wet basement, be aware of this issue! forewarn yourself by contacting your local building inspector and getting information about your local water table.

Do you have drainage problems?

Try this experiment: dig a hole one foot over and two feet deep and fill it thoroughly with water during a dry spell. If the hole drains thoroughly in less than five minutes or in more than 15 minutes, you have a problem. A more simple way to spot problems is to look at your lawn during and following a rain. If you have water flowing fast over the yard removing topsoil during a rain or pools of water on driveways, parking lots or lawns following rain, then you have a problem. Other indicators include yellowing plants, yellowing or thin turf although it receives abundance of sunlight and has no confident disease, fungus or mold on the lawn, stagnate water smell and water seeping through door sills, basements and garages.

Types of drainage solutions

A broad drainage ideas will include outside and subsurface drain solutions. outside drains remove the large amounts of water that fall in short periods of time and subsurface drains remove the excess water absorbed into the soil. The two systems work in conjunction to declare the moisture in your soil at the proper level for security of your landscaping and your home or building.

Gutters: Your first line of defense against foundation flooding is your gutters! during a moderate rainfall, the mean sized roof sheds 160 gallons of water runoff per hour. To preclude the runoff from being deposited on the ground next to your foundation, a proper gutter ideas is essential. Not only is the exact gutter size for your roof area a consideration, but an insufficient estimate of downspouts is equivalent to having no gutter ideas at all. Downspouts are needed to handle the volume of runoff your roof will collect and splash blocks must be utilized to direct the runoff away from your home or building and out to your drain system. A best explication to splash blocks, however, is to setup Pvc piping to the end of the downspouts to remove the water 6-10 feet or more away from your home or building. Furthermore, gutters must be properly maintained to preclude clogs and gutter joints must be inspected for leaks. Having a suitable, productive gutter ideas should be the first step in your drainage solution.

Grades: To protect structures, the most important grades on your asset are those within 10 feet of your foundation or basement. This will preclude the water you just diverted away from the buildings from soaking back through the soil toward your structure. convenient grades vary depending on who you consult but a safe estimation is a 1 inch (or more) drop for every 1 foot out for the first 10 feet. This results in at least a 10 inch slope for the 10 feet closest to your foundation walls. The rest of your yard should include a continuous slope downward to keep the water engaging away from your foundation.

Surface Drains: outside drainage can be defined as the controlled dismissal of water that collects on the land from rainfall, irrigation, snowmelt or hillside seeps. As gravity is the original force driving this type of system, it involves shaping the land with a continuous fall in the ground level to provide a downhill duct for outside runoff at an approved rate of flow. For grass drainage channels, or swales, a minimum slope of 1% to 5% is desired. The contours of the land then direct the runoff to a convenient variety site, such as ditches, basins or storm sewers. At the low point of the ditch or interception point, area drains are installed which are connected to a main or submain and prevents the water from pooling in your yard. The secret pipes need a minimum slope of 1% or 1/8 inch per foot to keep water engaging through them. If the ditch is long, any smaller drains should be spaced in a series, rather than one large drain in the middle, to help preclude erosion.

For driveways and other hardscapes, channel drains and exposed French drains are ideal. These linear trenches collect sheets of water that run off, as concrete and asphalt digest none of the water as it falls. The open area of the channel/ exposed French drain is much greater than an area drain and is best fine to the greater volume of rain it will need to collect. Additionally, channel drains allow designers to modestly slope hardscapes, rather than requiring numerous, greatest slopes to direct runoff to area drains.

Subsurface Drains: While the benefits of subsurface drainage are hard to see because they occur within the soil, the disagreement will be noticeable in your plants, grass and soil. Subsurface drainage is the dismissal of gravitational water from the soil, which is closed by placing French drains secret to collect and remove water to a drainage outlet. Subsurface drains do not remove water indispensable for plants, only excess water, which flows to the drains by gravity. Sub-Surface French drains consist excavating a vast trench and lining it with a filter or geotextile fabric, which helps preclude soil particles from entering the French drain. The trench is then filled with clean rock/gravel and a proper sized perforated Pvc pipe for the application is settled in the gravel.

Once the trench is filled with grave, it will be covered with a layer a permeable filter fabric, installing a blend of high ability topsoil/ sand and lastly installing new sod on top (assuming this French drain will be settled in a grassy area). French drains function when water in the soil enters the gravel bed, flows into the perforated pipe and travels through connecting solid pipes to a dismissal point. A normal guideline for placing French drains is to use 4 - 6 inch perforated pipes, bury them 18 to 36 inches deep and space them 15 to 20 feet apart. In the trenches, pipes must declare a .1% to a 1% slope. Soil construct, acreage and turf usage, however, may want disagreement from these guidelines and a professional can help you rule the best explication for your situation.

Discharge Outlets: Once water is collected in the pipes, it must be diverted to a convenient outlet to be released. This outlet can be a street gutter, a storm sewer or an onsite pond. Using a pop-up drainage emitter, water can be diverted to a water-safe area on your asset away from your home or building. Pop-up drainage emitters are opened by the hydrostatic pressure of water flowing through the drain pipe, releasing water collected from gutters, downspouts, basins, grates, etc. If settled close to the street, the released water can flow over the curb and into the street without having to drill through the curb. The emitters then close as water flow diminishes, preventing debris and animals from entering the end of the pipe and clogging the system. asset owner or maintenance personnel need to make sure they perform habit maintenance on the pop-up emitters. This can be done by removing the pop-up to make sure there is no debris washed down from the roof gutters or outside drains that could potentially slow down the water flow in a heavy rainfall event.

Cleanout Connections: It is a good idea to setup cleanout connections on all drainage systems integrated into your property. This is generally overlooked until pipes need to be accessed by cameras or cleaning equipment years after the first installation. Passage points are needed for the following three reasons. 1) habit maintenance, and especially if habit maintenance is neglected because the undertaker of a package deal will have to Passage the pipe to unclog them for a fee of course. 2) If the systems functionality has declined. 3) If damage has occurred to the drainage ideas pipes from heavy equipment or excavation during an on-site building project. Although cleanouts add cost to your project, it is highly recommended to have cleanouts installed on all downspout connections, all French drain systems and all long mainline pipe runs over 80' without drain grates in which you can access.

Before contracting to have you project installed, make sure cleanouts are integrated into your drainage system. It has been calculated that the cost to cut into a pipe and then patch it because there are no cleanouts will be a minimum of twice the cost as having them installed in the first place. Sometimes it is 5-10 times as much when Passage is needed to an existing French drain without cleanout connections. So don't gamble because when you're installing a ideas with materials that last decades, you well will need access; if for nothing else, habit maintenance. A professional drainage undertaker of a package deal should be able to help you rule the best cleanout points for the ideas their proposing for your property.

 Finding & Hiring a fine drainage contractor

Doing your homework on inherent drainage installers is important. You need to be assured that your undertaker of a package deal is insured and has the skills needed to properly setup your systems. Be wary of "special deals" or the "great deal from a friend of a friend" - these will most likely cost you more dollars and headaches in the long run.

Tools for Locating a inherent Drainage Contractor: The best enterprise Bureau is a great starting point in your hunt for a contractor. They declare an online directory for Bbb-accredited businesses in your area. You can check not only how long a undertaker of a package deal has been in business, but also any complaints filed about their operation. Angie's List is other great tool for recommendations, as you can get testimonials from actual customers. Even if you "hear of a guy from a friend," check their references online. See what other people's experiences have been and select a pool of inherent contractors from the best you can find.

Portfolio and References: After you have a list of inherent citizen for the job, ask to see a portfolio of their old jobs and whether you can see old worksites. If possible, see their handiwork in person, perhaps driving by a home or enterprise during or after a rain. This will help you not only to understand their drainage plans for your property, but to assure you they can well get the job done right. If you can speak with old customers, ask if they were satisfied with the work, whether the undertaker of a package deal stayed within allocation and if the project was completed in a timely manner. You need to look for the best someone for the job, not the bottom bid. You want the problem to be fixed upon project completion; you do not want to be dealing with drainage problems or, in worst case scenarios, legal problems, long after the undertaker of a package deal has left.

Bids: Get at least two bids for your definite job and get them in writing. Furthermore, make sure you understand the disagreement in the middle of the bids. Higher bids do not always mean a undertaker of a package deal is trying to get more money into his pocket. best materials, more skilled workmanship and best reliability may be worth a slightly higher price. Keep in mind that, usually, you "get what you pay for."

Insurance: An important issue when hiring a undertaker of a package deal is his insurance. If your undertaker of a package deal does not carry normal liability guarnatee or worker's compensation, the asset owner can held responsible for any accidents which occur while work is being done. To protect yourself, ask for proof of insurance. Reputable contractors will understand that you are doing your investigate and will not be offended. Be wary of any that try to convince you this is unnecessary - they may have something to hide.

Skills Needed: Make sure inherent contractors have the skills needed to do your job. Is your undertaker of a package deal a drainage expert or merely a landscaper who has dabbled in drainage installation? Can he apply a transit to analyze your slopes if needed? Does he know the proper depths and spacing for pipe placement in your yard? Most importantly, is he diverting your excess water to a convenient outlet? Purposefully diverting water to a neighbor's yard, when runoff didn't already simply flow to that yard, can consequent in huge fines. As the asset owner, you will be held responsible for your contractor's end result.

Equipment, supervision & project Site Management: Find out who will supervise the work and how often will they be onsite to see that the plans are followed? Will the project continue daily until closed without interruption other than weather delays? You need to know who to call if you have a ask or problem. Furthermore, does your undertaker of a package deal have Passage to the equipment needed to get the job done?

Products: Which products does the undertaker of a package deal use and are they the best in the industry? Be wary of contractors that offer a big reduction because they will use materials left over from a old job. While you may be curious in recovery a few bucks, are you confident these materials are convenient for you project and needs? Having the project done with substandard materials that will not last never ends well for the asset owner. You might have to have the ideas torn up and reinstalled a consolidate years later, costing you double down the road.

Warranty: Make sure there is some sort of a warranty with your drainage ideas factory once it is complete. More importantly feel confident enough with the enterprise that they will even be in enterprise to fulfill that warranty agreement. See if they can give you a past buyer that you can call to talk to where they had a warranty issue that the undertaker of a package deal successfully resolved for them. Many specialized drainage associates offer a minimum of a 12-month warranty of full functionality, some contractors offer more.

Warning: We know of a family who hired a undertaker of a package deal that a friend's neighbor had used. Although they met with him and belief he seemed like a "good guy," they did no investigate on him or his enterprise and references were not checked. After realizing that no real develop had been made in spite of the thousands of dollars they had paid him, they began to investigate. As it turns out, the friend's neighbor had had similar complaints and was dissatisfied. If the homeowners had spoken to the citizen for whom the undertaker of a package deal had worked, rather than going by their impression of his personality, they would have been spared a good chunk of change. In expanding to leaving their home a faultless mess, they lost all the money initially invested and had to pay someone else to halt the job. Furthermore, because they had not done their due diligence with regard to the contract, they had itsybitsy legal recourse. The lesson: always err on the side of caution! Do not assume that a undertaker of a package deal has your best interests at heart; look at their old jobs and, if possible, consult citizen for whom they have worked. Most citizen are happy to tell you about their experiences with a business, whether good or bad, and businesses with a solid credit are not wary of you looking their old work.

Copyright © 2010 Team Green Outdoor Inc. All possession reserved

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Thursday, March 22, 2012

Dual Pane Window Glass fix

For the past few weeks, I have been explaining how to heal a broken window pane in your home. But, what if you have dual pane windows? Is the process the same? Well, pretty much, except for a join of variations. So, let's characterize the singular pane heal process, and I will point out the differences about dual pane windows.

When we start talking about dual pane windows, one of the first things that comes to mind is vinyl window frames instead of aluminum. When dealing with dual pane windows, you can have either aluminum or vinyl frames, depending on the year the house was built. Dual pane glass got popular in the 1980's, but vinyl frames didn't precisely catch on until the 1990's. So, if your house is less than 10 years old, chances are you have vinyl framed windows. In either case, I will discuss the differences. Let's say you have a sliding aluminum frame window with dual pane glass. The course for removing the frame from the opening and the glass from the sash is the same as with the singular pane windows.

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The differences are, first, the glass goes into the frame about twice as far as the singular pane window. The singular pane window glass went 1/4" into the surrounding rubber. The dual pane normally goes 1/2" into the rubber. So, if both pieces of glass have been broken, you are going to have to order a new Igu (Insulated Glass Unit) from the local glass shop. They are going to want to know the width, height, farranging thickness, and perhaps the individual glass thickness. The best way to get the dimensions is to portion the width and height from rubber to rubber, write those numbers down. Then, remove the panel from the opening and place it on a table like we did with the singular pane window. remove the screws from opposite corners and pull of the frame. You will be able to see how far the glass goes into the surrounding rubber. If it's 1/2", then you want to add 1" to the width and height that you measured previously (1/2" times two sides= 1"). Then, portion the farranging thickness of the unit by removing the rubber from the glass edge.

Typically, this dimension is 1/2", but not always. There is a metal spacer that divides the two panes of glass. Make a note of the color so you can invite the same color in the new Igu. It's either going to be silver or bronze. If you want to get the same size spacer you need to give the glass shop the thickness of each piece of glass in the Igu. If the old unit has 1/8" glass on both sides, and the farranging thickness of the unit is 1/2", then they will use a 1/4" spacer. If the glass is 3/32" on both sides, they will use a 5/16" spacer. If you don't care about matching the spacer thickness, you can invite the thicker 1/8" glass, and they will automatically use a 1/4" spacer.

When you get the new Igu home, the factory is the same as the singular pane window. Now, what if only one side of the Igu has been broken? Many times the outer pane will break, but the inside pane is fine. You can order a whole new Igu Like we just did, or, if you're the adventurous type, you can order only the singular pane of glass that was broken and replace it. I'm going to interpret how to do it, then i'm going to tell you the things that can go wrong. After you have the window pane on the table with the surrounding frame removed, you will see a black rubber type substance nearby the edge where the spacer is applied. This is a butyl sealant, and you have to separate the broken glass from this butyl. The best way to do it is to take a utility knife with a new blade and break through the butyl where it meets the broken glass. Then, take a new hacksaw blade, and push it into the area where you sparated the butyl from the glass. You don't want the hacksaw blade to be attached to a hacksaw. Using your hand, saw back and forth as you work your way nearby the edge of the glass. This should allow you to remove the glass.

Once that's done, lay rags on top of the good piece of glass to catch any debris, and scrape the exterior of the spacer that will be contacting the new glass. Use a putty knife. Then, remove the rags and debris. When you are ready to put the new glass on, clean the inside of the good piece of glass that you didn't remove. Remember, once you setup the new glass, any debris or finger marks on the inside will be constantly sealed. So, clean it real good and check it from all angles. Do the same to the side of the new glass that will be going to the inside of the Igu. Then, run a thin bead of clear silicone nearby the whole perimeter of the spacer. Set your new glass on the spacer and use finger pressure to cleave the glass to the silicone all the way around.Then, come in from the side, and run silicone nearby the side where the glass and spacer meet. Cover the window opening with something for 24 hours. You do not want to touch the Igu for 24 hours. The silicone needs to cure. After 24 hours, you can assemble the unit and setup it back into the opening.

There are a join of things that can go wrong. The first one is leaving marks on the inside portion of the glass. Once you seal the glass, you cannot clean what's in the middle of the panes. The other thing involves condensation in the middle of the panes. If you have even the slightest break in the silicone seal nearby the glass, chances are you will beging to see moisture form as soon as the nights get cold and the days get warm. You are going to have to resolve if you are safe bet sufficient in your ability to do the job right, or if it's great to pay the extra money to have it done for you. Just because you pay man to do it, doesn't mean you still won't encounter the same problems. The dissimilarity is, they have to warrant their Igu for a minimum of 1 year. I have received many units over the years that had marks in in the middle of the glass. The beauty of it is the maker can't dispute it, because there's no way whatever else could have done it except them.

Ok, what if the window frames are vinyl instead of aluminum? Well, the main dissimilarity is the glass in a vinyl window no longer has the rubber gasket nearby the edge. You dont remove the opposite corner screws and separate the frame from the glass. What they do is put either silicone or a two sided tape on the lip of the frame where the glass rests. That's what holds the glass in the frame, then they apply a snap in stop on all four sides of the glass. So, you have to remove the stops first, then turn over the panel and break the seal holding the glass to the frame using a utility knife. Wear gloves during this procedure. If only one side of the Igu is broken, don't even think about repairing just the one side. You will never get that Igu out of the frame without breaking the other piece of glass in the process. But, on the safe bet side, you can remove the stops without taking the panel out if it's a slider. You can then portion the dimensions of the glass, and order the new Igu. That way you eliminate any need to temporarily cover up your window. The same is true for the stationary portion of a slider, or a photograph window. Before you setup the new Igu, be sure and clean the lip that had the tape or silicone, and apply either silicone or tape. either will work.

You will explore that replacing an Igu in an aluminum frame window is a whole lot easier than a vinyl window. But, in either case, you can do it yourself and save a few bucks.

Dual Pane Window Glass fix

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Saturday, March 17, 2012

Wheelchair Accessible Kitchen Or When the Chef Has Wheels

I get many questions with regard to details of an accessible kitchen. Questions like, what is the standard countertop height from the floor to the top of the counter, or what is the standard toe-kick. The list goes on and on.  Are there extra appliances or cabinets? In this article I will cover the basics, cabinets, flooring, lighting, electrical, and finally appliances.

Cabinets
Most cabinet manufacturers offer exact Ada compliant cabinets which will give you a final countertop height of 32" from the floor to the top of the counter. They will also include the proper toe-kick of 9" high by 6" deep. This provides room for the foot rest of a wheelchair to slide under the edge of the cabinet. This any way does not contribute entrance to the cook-top or sink. The base cabinets that will house these items will need to have knee space under the countertop. Now upper cabinets gift a distinct set of problems. Even if they are installed at the standard height above the base cabinets only the bottom shelf will be accessible to someone seated in a wheelchair. I personally like to lower them someone else 6" so that the bottom two shelves are accessible. Or you could save the price and just leave them out. One last item, the base cabinets should have large deep drawers instead of cabinet doors, as these are more accessible.  

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Flooring
The flooring should be hard surface, such as wood or ceramic tile or stone. You should avoid any kind of flooring that has give or is cushioned. This kind of floor makes it difficult to move a hand-operated wheelchair around as does wall to wall carpeting or area rugs. Avoid these items if at all possible. Even the most innocent of kitchen rugs can be a risky tripping hazard for the disabled or elderly.
 
Lighting
With today's need to be green, lighting for the accessible kitchen is no longer thought about specialized. The use of Cfl (Compact Florescent Light) bulbs and Led under cabinet low voltage task lighting is coarse place. So the only thing that beyond doubt needs to be said is that you need to contribute task lighting in all food preparation areas.
 
Electrical
This is one area that is often overlooked as far where and how to setup electrical outlets and switches in an accessible kitchen.  Wall outlets are ordinarily located behind the base cabinet, whether above or in the backsplash. For someone seated in a wheelchair this means they have to make a risky reach in order to use the outlet. It is best to setup the outlet in the face of the base cabinet, just under the countertop. Or a popup multi-outlet can be installed in the countertop itself within easy reach of the wheelchair occupant. Switches should be located at 48" above the floor so that they are within reach of the wheelchair occupant. Use rocker type switches for those with itsybitsy use of their fingers. finally outlets that are on a wall without cabinets should be at least 18" above the floor for a safe reach in a wheelchair.

Appliances
While there is no need for specialized or convention appliances, unavoidable types of appliances are best in an accessible kitchen. Let's start with the stove for example, a approved range cannot be used, A cut off cook-top and oven unit will need to be used. As mentioned before the cook-top will need a knee space below the cabinet. The oven should be mounted in a base cabinet so it can be beyond doubt loaded and unloaded. A heat unyielding outside at countertop level should be provided to place hot pans on. Next a drawer type dishwasher can be mounted conventionally and beyond doubt accessed from a wheelchair. However, a standard front loading dishwasher will need to be raised 9" to make it easy to load and unload. The sinks will have to have rear mounted drains to allow for the knee space under and still allow for a disposal. The microwave should be mounted below the countertop. finally the refrigerator should whether be a side by side model or a French door model with the freezer on the bottom.
 
There are probably other items that you can do to make a kitchen even more accessible. Try sitting in a standard kitchen chair in front of a question area and ask yourself what can I change, that will make this area more accessible.  I hope this helps those of you who need to make your kitchen more accessible for a wheelchair. If you have any questions don't hesitate ask. Remember breath Peace and God's Love..... 

Wheelchair Accessible Kitchen Or When the Chef Has Wheels

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Wednesday, March 14, 2012

How to Make Pumpkin Puree

Each year, eighty percent of the pumpkins grown in the Usa are harvested in October. Commercially canned puree is probably the most well-known edible form of this popular autumn produce, any way the mild, slightly sweet flesh of fresh pumpkin makes an exquisite dish when baked, boiled, sauteed, steamed or microwaved. The pumpkin seeds, as well, may be toasted to originate a marvelously tasty and healthy snack.

This description will discuss the process of selecting the proper cooking pumpkin and the technique for making ready homemade pumpkin puree.

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Selecting and Storing Fresh Pumpkins...

How to put in order Homemade Pumpkin Puree...

The following recipe will yield a minimum of 1-3/4 cups of puree -- equal to 1 (15-oz.) can of solid pack pumpkin puree. (Three pounds of fresh pumpkin will yield about 3 cups mashed cooked pumpkin.) Any leftover puree may be frozen - see frozen instructions below. Use this puree in recipes or substitute it in the same estimate in any recipe calling for solid pack canned pumpkin.

1. Pick a 3 to 4 pound sugar ('pie') pumpkin for making ready puree. (Under no circumstances cook or eat a carved Halloween pumpkin as the cut surfaces breed bacteria.)

2. Preheat oven to 350F (175C).

3. Just prior to baking, rinse the pumpkin under cold water to remove any dirt or debris from the exterior of the pumpkin; wipe dry with a cloth or paper towel.

4. Split the pumpkin in half and remove the seeds and stringy fibers by scraping the insides with a metal spoon. Discard fibers and save seeds for toasting, if desired.

5. Rub the cut surfaces of the pumpkin with canola oil and place the 2 halves (cut-side-down) in a roasting pan. Add 1 cup of water.

6. Bake in preheated oven until pumpkin flesh is tender when pierced with a knife (approximately 90 minutes).

7. remove the pumpkin halves from the oven and place them on a cutting board or other flat exterior to cool.

8. When cool adequate to handle, scoop the baked flesh out of each pumpkin half with a spoon.

9. Puree pumpkin in a food processor fitted with a metal chopping blade or mash by hand.

10. Place the puree in a sieve lined with a paper-towel or coffee filter and set over a deep bowl. Let drain, stirring occasionally until the puree is as thick as canned solid pack pumpkin, roughly 1 to 2 hours. (Important: Do not allow cooked pumpkin to set at room temperature longer than two hours in the process of production puree.)

Note: Pumpkin may also be cut into chunks and steamed or cooked in boiling water until soft. remove pulp from rind then mash or run straight through a food mill or food processor. Because this technique yields a more 'watery' puree, it is prominent to drain out moisture as mentioned above, or by gradually warming in a heavy-bottomed saucepan to remove any excess water before use.

How To keep Pumpkin Puree...

Homemade pumpkin puree freezes beautifully for later use.
To freeze:

1. Allow prepared puree to cool completely.

2. Portion puree into 1-3/4 cup portions and place in clean ridged freezer packaging (leaving 1/2-inch headspace).

3. Label, date, and ice for up to one year.

Cooking With Pumpkin Puree...

Not only is pumpkin puree an exquisite source of vitamin A, low in sodium and fat-free -- it is also very versatile. Whether using homemade or commercially canned puree, it is an ingredient that may be used in making ready an endless estimate of pie, cake, cookie, muffin, sweet bread, pancake, creamy soup and elegant bisque recipes.

Why not try swirling some into a steaming bowl of cream of wheat cereal along with some maple syrup? Maybe think perking up commonplace mashed potatoes by mashing in some pumpkin puree and sour cream. Just be creative and use your imagination - also keep in mind that most recipes that call for winter squash or sweet potatoes may be successfully put in order by substituting pumpkin.

Copyright 2005 Janice Faulk Duplantis

How to Make Pumpkin Puree

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Saturday, March 10, 2012

How to choose a Wine that Tastes Good - Some Tips for selecting a Wine

We'll start this description by asking these two questions: "Why is wine so confusing?" and "Does selecting a wine intimidate you?" If your acknowledge to the second question is yes, then you are not alone!

Most habitancy have been to a liquor store or a cafeteria and been well overwhelmed and intimidated by the sheer range and number of selections offered. The range of choices among wine varieties, brands, labels, and prices seem roughly infinite.

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Herein lies the problem: There are just too many choices.

So what is the explication to too many choices?

Well, the acknowledge in a few words is: recognize your own preference for wine taste.

Many habitancy know when they like a wine. But the difficult part is comprehension why. What do you like about it, and how do you reveal what it is that you like about that wine? Is it light or full bodied? Is it tannic or not? What are tannins anyway? Is it fruity or sweet? Do fruity and sweet mean the same thing? And, if you try and like a Shiraz, does that mean you will like all Shiraz?

All these questions can be answered by tasting wines, and then tasting more wine! Yet tasting is not enough as you must pay attention to what you are tasting. In my opinion, it is a good idea to learn with comparative tastings. Take for example the Chardonnay grape. It is grown in Mornington Peninsula, Victoria and also in Margaret River, Western Australia. Tasted side-by-side, you may first think that both Chardonnay's have tiny in common, yet they are both made from Chardonnay grapes.

When you taste a wine of the same range side-by-side, you can well begin to learn the differences between a full bodied and a light bodied wine; and a low tannin wine and a high tannin wine, etc.

Tips on how to pick a wine that is right for you

Step 1: settle if you want a white wine or red wine
Decide whether you want a white wine, red wine, sparkling wine, sweetmeat wine or fortified wine. This will narrow down your choices and give you some direction.

Step 2: settle on your preferences for wine taste
Have a think about your own preferences for the taste of a wine. (Tip: Use your knowledge from your comparative wine tastings to help you.)

As a minimum, settle whether you prefer a dry or sweet wine. (Dry is the term used to reveal the absence of sweetness in a wine.)

If you know your preferences for other wine characteristics, then it will also be a good idea to settle on these. If you don't know your preferences then I have included a short description here to help you in your comparative wine tastings.

1. Low Tannins vs High Tannins: Tannins are a vital ingredient in wines, especially red wines. It comes from the stalks, skins and pips of grapes. Tannins in a young wine yield a bitter, puckering taste on the palate.

2. Short Palate vs Long Palate: The "length" of a wine is the number of time the sensations of taste and aroma persist after swallowing. Usually, the longer the better.

3. Low Acid vs High Acid: Acids of varied types are gift in wine, and are necessary to the wine's longevity and also to your enjoyment. Too tiny can affect the wine's quality and too much can spoil the wine. A higher acidity makes the wine more tart and sour tasting; whereas a low acidity results in flat tasting wine that is more susceptible to spoilage.

Acidity is that quality that makes your mouth water and your lips pucker, and without it, wines (and anyone for that matter!) taste pretty flat and one dimensional. However, when acidity is gift in the right quantities, it is the element that makes all of the other flavours in the wine stand out, together with the undertones of fruit, spice and herbs. The flavour in wine that you would reveal as tangy, sharp, refreshing, bracing, bright, crisp or zingy is the acidity.

4. Light Bodied vs Full Bodied: To get a picture of the differences between a light-bodied wine and a full-bodied wine think about milk as an analogy. Light-bodied is analogous to skim milk and full-bodied wine analogous to full-cream milk, and the variations in the "body" of wne are like varying levels of fat-content in milk.

What makes it even easier, is that a wine's body is directly proportional to its alcohol content. On every wine label you'll observation a ration of alcohol by volume. Note how it applies to body:

* 7.5% - 10.5% indicates light body

* 10.5% - 12.5% indicates medium body

* 12.5% and over indicates full body

5. No Oak vs Heavy Oak: Wines might be stored in oak barrels, normally to reveal extra and more involved flavours. French, American and German oak barrels are widely used in Australia. Oaky describes the aroma or taste quality imparted to a wine by the oak barrels in which it was aged. The terms toasty, vanilla, dill, cedary and smoky indicate the desirable qualities of oak; charred, burnt, green cedar, lumber and plywood reveal its unpleasant side.

Step 3: Buy wine that is well looked after, like at the cellar door
It is leading to purchase wine from liquor outlets that take permissible care of their wine, e.g. Buying direct from the winery's cellar door is a good option. Greatest heat or cold, direct sunlight, and dramatic temperature fluctuations are not good for wine. Also, before you buy, make sure the wine is filled up to the neck of the bottle, the cork is not pushing out of the bottle, and there are no signs of leakage.

Step 4: Enjoy exploring the range and diversity of Australian wine
There are lots of good reasons to recognize all of the wines that Australia has to offer in all its diversity. Don't just stick to the customary varieties like Chardonnay or Shiraz - experiment with other whites like Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Gewurztraminer or reds like Zinfandel, and Pinot Noir. Also, try examples of a singular range from distinct wine regions to understand how regional conditions affect the wine's character. Expose yourself to every type of wine. The more you taste the more you will understand and the easier wine choice will become.

Step 5: Buy by the case
When you find a wine you well like, think buying wine by the case (12 bottles). Most wineries will offer you a 10% or 15% wine discount when you purchase a case of wine or more.

Step 6: Only rely on your own taste buds
The Greatest goal of wine buying is to buy wines that taste good to you. Just because a merchant, friend or wine writer says a wine is good doesn't mean you'll like it. Conversely, don't shy away from a wine because someone else says that it is no good. The only judge of good taste in wine is you.

And herein lies one of the biggest benefits of so much choice: you are sure to find wines that are excellent for your own unique taste buds. All you need is just a tiny knowledge as described above and the willingness to explore. If you are curious in comparative wine tasting, www.boutiquewineries.com.au may be a good place to get started.

And most importantly, be open to the possibilities and then, make note of them and learn from them.

How to choose a Wine that Tastes Good - Some Tips for selecting a Wine

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Tuesday, March 6, 2012

How to Make Beef Jerky in Your Smoker

When you learn how to make beef jerky in your smoker you can bypass all the beef jerky recipes that call for liquid smoke. Smoker beef jerky is about as authentic as jerky gets.

Making jerky outdoors on a smoker is closer to the old pioneer method. That's when beef was cured and dried to withhold for eating on the long trails.

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By using this method not only do you get some great eating but also it's just doggone fun!

Selecting Beef For Smoker Jerky

Selecting the beef you use for jerky is the same regardless of the method you use to generate the jerky.

You must make your mind up a lean cut of beef and then trim any fat you see. Fat will not dry out and it will cause your jerky to go rancid quickly.

Most cuts from the round section of the beef animal do just fine. My personal selection is eye of round. It's a particular muscle cut with no connective tissue and has very itsybitsy internal fat and any external fat is undoubtedly trimmed.

You can buy round steak for easy slicing into strips but I usually buy an eye of round roast and have my butcher slice it 1/2 inch thick. Then I trim the fat and cut the slices into strips.

For this method you will need two pounds of beef.

Smoked Beef Jerky Marinade

Caution: This smoked beef jerky method calls for a lot of black pepper. If you're not a black pepper fan you might want to cut back a bit for your first try.

1 cup soy sauce
4 tablespoons ground black pepper
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1 dash hot pepper sauce
1 dash Worcestershire sauce

Directions

Combine the soy sauce, ground black pepper, cider vinegar, pepper sauce and Worcestershire sauce in a non-reactive bowl. Mix the ingredients well and add the beef strips.

Pour the strips and marinade in a resealable plastic bag. Place the bag in the refrigerator overnight. Turn the bag over once in a while when you think about it.

Smoking Beef Jerky

Fill the fire pan of your smoker with charcoal and light it. Wrap some wood chunks of your selection in heavy-duty foil and punch a few holes in the foil.

Remove your marinated beef strips from the refrigerator and dry them as well as you can with paper towels. The dryer the better!

When your charcoal is ready for smoking add the foil wrapped wood chunks to the coals.

Try to say a 140-degree temperature in your smoker with the use of the vents. You only want the meat to smoke and not cook.

Lay the marinated meat strips out on the grill so that they do not overlap. Alternatively you can drape the strips over the rods of the grill grate. You can smoke a lot of jerky this way.

Kick back and relax as you smoke the jerky over low heat. Pop a top or two!

Your smoked beef jerky will be done when the edges appear dry with just a itsybitsy hint of moisture in the center of the slices, about 6 to 8 hours.

For a lighter smoke flavor you might reconsider removing the meat from the smoker after two hours and terminate drying in the oven.

This is one of my beloved beef jerky recipes. So now you have it. How to make beef jerky in your smoker!

How to Make Beef Jerky in Your Smoker

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Sunday, March 4, 2012

Top List of Cakes You Can Make

There are two main types of cakes and they are butter and foam cakes.

Butter cakes - are ready by using solid shortening or margarine but population still call them butter cakes as they are moist, light and fine textured.

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Foam Cakes - contained a large amount of eggs or egg whites. The light and fluffy texture of foam cakes comes from the air beaten into the eggs and from the steam which forms in the batter during the baking progress. The three kinds of foam cakes are:

- Angel food cakes - has no shortening or oil and only use white eggs.
- Chiffon cakes - has oil and uses egg yolks and whites.
- sycophant cakes - has no shortening or oil and uses egg yolks and whites.

The separate sizes of cakes and the total amount of serves it can accommodate:

- 8 or 9 inch layer cake is good for 12 to 16 serves.
- 8 or 9 inch quadrate cake is good for 6 to 9 serves.
- 13 x 9 inch rectangular cake is ideal for 12 to 16 serves.
- 10 x 4 inch tube cake is good for 16 to 20 serves.
- 12 - Cup Bundt cake is ideal for 16 to 20 serves.

The separate kinds of cakes you can pick to buy or put in order to for other population such as friends and family are as follows:

- Chocolate Turtle
- Baritone Pudding
- Pudding
- Coconut
- Holiday Jam
- Strawberry Daiquiri
- Cherry Nut
- Party Cup Cakes for Kids
- Chocolate Chip
- Pineapple
- 3-Day Mound
- Easy Pound Cake
- Triple Chocolate
- Apple
- Black Forest
- Ice Cream Cone Cup Cakes
- Rocky Road
- Lemon - Lime Refrigerator Sheet
- Sherry Angel Food
- Butterscotch Coffee
- Cream Cheese Pound Cake
- Crisp Cake
- Skor
- Strawberry
- Stripe-It-Rich
- Jam
- Orange Chiffon Dessert
- Pistachio
- Cake Mix Cookies
- Humming Bird
- Baby Food Loaf
- Grandmas Old Fashioned Fruit Cake

As you can see, when population are asked to make a cake, most can't think past sycophant or chocolate. So, I hope you can see now that there are many varieties that you can pick from. You can whether learn how to make these from searching the Internet or getting somebody to make it for you.

Top List of Cakes You Can Make

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Thursday, March 1, 2012

An overview of Frameless Glass Patio Doors

According to construction Regulations, patio doors need to meet distinct levels of thermal insulation standards to be approved. This means that continental Glass Curtains, single glazed tempered glass frameless panels, are unsuitable as external doors for the British housing market. How, then, are thermally compliant double-glazed frameless doors possible?

Patio doors are traditionally available as sliding or bi-folding panels.

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Because sliding doors all the time remain fixed in the middle of the top and bottom runners, the frames can be very slim, possibly frameless; the disadvantage of the principles being that at least one of the panel widths is all the time gift as a wall to unrestricted access in the middle of home and patio. Bi folding doors open fully in concertina style to stack compactly at the side of the opening. The panels are hinged together, therefore frames are valuable for the hinges to be attached to the doors, particularly to enlarge the free edges that are not supported by the fixed top and bottom runners.

The frameless glass patio doors principles has been based on the glass curtains formula of using separate panels that slide and pivot, interlocking like jigsaw pieces when closed. When fully open, the doors are stored to the side of the opening, similar to stacking bifolds.

Frameless double-glazed doors do not supply such a purely uninterrupted view as can be achieved with single glazing. This is because the double glazed unit has to be sealed with a gasket that is roughly 20mm (less than 1 inch) wide. Insulated glass or double glazing has thermal and acoustic properties attributable to the a vacuum or extra gas in the cavity in the middle of the inner and outer glass panels. A gasket needs to be reliably airtight to retain the gas or vacuum and to forestall humidity and condensation.

There is no further frame on frameless glass doors but the gasket is opaque and forms a frame-like interruption to views through a set of double glazed door panels, albeit minimal. There are places where you can setup non-double-glazed frameless glass doors, e.g. Conservatory doors, room partitions, balcony enclosures, outbuildings and commercial premises.

An overview of Frameless Glass Patio Doors

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